Above photo: Cape Lookout Lighthouse, Date unkonwn. U.S. Coast Guard Archives. Right: Beach at Cape Lookout. Courtesy National Park Service.

Cape Lookout Then

It was determined early on that a lighthouse would be needed at Cape Lookout. Congress authorized it in 1804, but the first lighthouse, made of wood, wouldn't be built until 1812. It lasted until 1859, when the second taller lighthouse, which is the structure that remains, was constructed. It rose one hundred and sixty-three feet, towering above the first at ninety-six feet. The original lighthouse remained as keeper's quarters until 1868. During the Civil War, the Confederates removed the beacons, but when the Union won the battle at Fort Macon in 1863, they reinstalled the light. On April 2, 1864, Confederates attempted to blow up the lighthouse, but it was only damaged, not destroyed.

Portsmouth Village has been around since 1753, becoming one of the largest cities on the Outer Banks. For one hundred years, it would be a "lightering" village, where cargo from larger ships was transferred to smaller vessels that could make it through the Ocracoke Inlet shallows. By the time the Civil War occurred, forcing many residents to flee inland and never return, the village had receded to predominantly a fishing village, replaced by the railroad and other inlets with deeper waters. One hundred years after that, in 1971, the village was completely abandoned. When the National Seashore was established in 1976, two hundred and fifty acres were set aside to tell the Portsmouth story.

Photo above: George Riley Willis House, Portsmouth, Date Unknown, Scott Taylor, Historic American Buildings Survey. Courtesy Library of Congress. Photo below: Cape Lookout Lighthouse. Courtesy National Park Service.

Cape Lookout Now

Since 1976, the Cape Lookout National Seashore has been home to horses, the Lighthouse, the remaining structures at both Portsmouth Village and Cape Lookout Village, and visitors. At Portsmouth Village, there are twenty-one remaining buildings, including twelve dwellings, one which serves as the Visitor Center, a church, Post Office/General Store, a Life Saving Station, and others. Some of the buildings are open to visit during the summer season when tours are available. You can visit Portsmouth Village by using the Ocracoke ferry.

One of the unique opportunities at Cape Lookout is the opportunity to see horses in the wild. Legend says that the horses on Shackleford Banks are descendents of Spanish stallions lost in a shipwreck. They are wild and should be viewed, if visiting, with caution. We've probably shortchanged the main reason you'll come to Cape Lookout, and that's to take advantage of the wide and wonderful beaches. Yes, it is a bit of a trek to get there, with the ferry ride and limited access by vehicles, but a camping night or beach day, whether you like any of that history or not, is always a welcome addition to any vacation. And you might even decide to take a swim, fish, or just plain have safe and careful water fun.