What's There Now

Fort Monroe

There's no doubt that a first time visitor should head straight for the Fort Monroe Visitor and Education Center. Housed in the 1909 Coast Artillery Library building, it highlights the history from the American Indian presence in the area, to slavery, and its role in protecting the coast. There are exhibits on the structure itself, the largest stone fort in America, five hundred and sixty five acres, as well as orientation, timed tickets for the Casemate Museum, and facilities.

The Casemate Museum tells the story of the military history of the island, from the first fort, Fort Algernourne, built in 1609, to Fort George to Fortress Monroe history until it was decommissioned. Highlights there include the cell for Jefferson Davis used for a time after his capture following the end of the Civil War, (he spent two years at the fort, most in Carroll Hall, an officer's quarters) plus the decision and location where runaway slaves were allowed to be housed as "Contraband of War," when the fort became known as Fortress Sanctuary. Self-guided tours are available with a timed ticket.

Other interesting sites is the Old Point Comfort Light Station, the oldest working light in the Chesapeake Bay, and second oldest altogether. In 1775, John Dams tended a light there, and in 1800, Congress appropriated $5,000 to build it. It was completed in 1803 and fell into British hands during the War of 1812. There are so many buildings, one hundred and seventy, within the fort and outside, it's hard to highlight a few. Building #1, Old Quarters, oldest house (1819) inside the moat, Lincoln stayed there while planning the attack on Norfolk from May 6-11, 1862. This was in response to the Confederates, on August 7, 1861, who had burned the city of Hampton. Building #50, the Engineer's Quarters, and Building #17, where Robert E. Lee stayed while overseeing part of the fort's construction in 1831. That building today is park headquarters and not open to the public.

Photo above: Building 119 on General's Row, Fenwick Road, outside the walls of the fort, built in 1907, 2011, National Park Service.

Directions

Fort Monroe is located sixty-five miles east of Richmond, Virginia, off Exit 268 of I-64. The address of the Fort Monroe National Monument Visitor Center is 30 Ingalls Rd, Fort Monroe, VA 23651. Some use 41 Bernard Road, Building #17, Fort Monroe, VA 23651-1001, as the GPS address. Once you get that close to either, follow the signs. It is currently only open Wednesday to Sunday.

Lodging and Camping

While there's no lodging inside or outside the Fort on the island today, unlike the Hygeia Hotel of yesteryear, lodging in the Hampton Roads and Norfolk area is plentiful, includes boathouses and comes with a variety of price tags. Check your favorite online travel site for the accommodation that might fit your needs.

As far as camping, there is a RV Campground on site. The Colonies RV and Travel Park is located on Fort Monroe National Monument with ground for tents, first come first serve, and twenty-three sites for RV's. Off the island, more options abound on the Norfolk or Hampton Roads side of the inlet, depending on your preference.

Photo above: Fort Monroe and Old Point Comfort, 1902, William Henry Jackson, Detroit Publishing Company. Courtesy Library of Congress. Below: Bridge at Fort Monroe looking south from the ramparts, 1908, Detroit Publishing Company. Courtesy Library of Congress.

Slavery History of Fort Monroe and Point Comfort

Nothing can be more disheartening thanthe notion that the site of Fort Monroe, known as Point Comfort at the time, during the Jamestown era of Virginia, on August 25, 1619 that John Rolfe met an English ship with Dutch colors who had stolen fifty slaves from a Portuguese slave en route from Angola to Mexico. And he decided to buy twenty from the first ship that docked, thus introducing slavery to English colonial America. And the odd part, it was also the first year of the House of Burgesses in Virginia. Go figure. But yes, that act of brutality happened and needs to be taught in history classes, as well as when visiting Fort Monroe, which it is.

But the history of slavery at Fort Monroe also has a middle to its story. During the Civil War, escaping slaves from southern states would come to the doorstep of the fortress, in Union hands, and be housed there as they made their way north. For several months, Harriet Tubman treated the sick there at Fort Monroe’s Colored Hospital. That certainly didn't erase or jump minority acceptance into American society by 1865. But those acts, along with President Lincoln's Emancipation Proclamation several years earlier, at least started a positive path forward. One we are still treding today.

While the history of slavery at Old Point Comfort was not good, and the housing of runaway slaves during the Civil War in Union Fort Monroe good, the history of the first must be remembered and the 1619 Memorial Project is underway to build a memorial commesurate with its importance, right along the waterway near the fishing pier and near the site of the actual landing. It will overlook the Chesapeake Bay and is being designed by Brian R. Owens.

Photo above: Montage (left) English man of war, flying a Dutch flag, lands slaves, in 1619, onto the dock at Point Comfort, 1901, Harper's Monthly. Courtesy Library of Congress. (right) Escaped former slaves at Fort Monroe during the Civil War, 1865, Unknown Photographer. Courtesy National Park Service.